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日志


2009/11/5

China trip 中国行

“Zhanfang of white smoke rising, I was born in a herdsman’s home, raising my land, when I cherish the same body … …” Stengel low and melodious songs often took me into the dream Grasslands, the ancient Great Wall, my heart’s Inner Mongolia, which is under the blue sky and white clouds, Pastoral loud and clear, the wind is low grass and sheep picture. When at last have a chance to Inner Mongolia, I enthusiastically, eager to feel the passion and joy beyond the Great Wall.

days of the Provisional Legislative Building Border Town

we have here is the first leg of Hohhot. “Hohhot” is a Mongolian, meaning “green city”, “Qingcheng”, as a result of on-call around the temple, also known as the “city-call.” Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region is located in the central part of Tumochuan soil, the capital of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, the region is also political, economic and cultural center since ancient times for the grasslands of Inner Mongolia National colony important, Mongolia, Han, Hui, Manchu, Oroqen, Ewenki, and so on a total of 34 national Habitat.We received our comrades drive from the airport to the hotel, along the roads clean and spacious, green grass on both sides of the white Yangcheng Lin, many buildings, a fully modern metropolis, I can not help feeling: the old border town snow thousands of miles, north of the Great Wall Zhao also Jiangnan.The reception comrades, laughing, a lot of guests from other provinces into the city, in amazement, that there is no city, only grassland, also on horseback to go to work, did not expect the same here and the mainland’s prosperity and modern.

next morning we have a motor car 90 kilometers, to a genuine prairie - prairie Hui Xi Lamu. Prairie is coming, there are many roadside Mongolian youth, dressed in brightly colored gowns Mongolia, holding wine and hada, and so on the road. It is said to be Mongolia’s customs: dismount wine. In the past not have a car, horse-riding guests are coming, to meet the owner, please guests dismount, and to respect alcohol. We have to get off one by one, holding hands Hadda Mongolian girl, placed his right hand on a Bowl Hada, a Mongolian with a small group of liquor in front of the guests filled, the girl burst into singing the beautiful Mongolian songs, singing in the bend Bring wine, liquor Duanqi guests, with the index finger dipped wine, Saxiang first day of the second Saxiang, three Saxiang his forehead, said Yu Jing Tian Jing with respect to their ancestors glass of red slip down. Do not drink is to hear the master of disrespect, so we dare not neglect, strong wine, we have felt the passion of the Mongolian people and the Bold, and a preliminary taste of the Inner Mongolia is a song of the sea, the home of the legendary wine. Drank wine dropped, we get on the train, on its way, Mongols launched one after another youth, in the Mercedes-Benz car on both sides, we will welcome all the way into the grassland, Jin Ying yurts.

yurts and put a carpet on a Coffee table, who herdsmen do not have to be chair of the stool, we Tuo Lexie sitting cross-legged on the carpet, the table has been filled with Naipi, milk tablets, cheese, milk Cakes, butter, and so on a variety of dairy products, tea Zhenshang you to the master. It is reported that tea is the drink of the Mongolian People’s important, who herdsmen long-term consumption of meat, oils and fats, and may He Naicha adopted to ensure the health of the body. Inner Mongolia and the middle class but not tea, so in ancient times, the Central Plains and the Great Wall of trade trade, often with horses in exchange for the North Central Plains of tea, tea and sometimes because of the war caused. But the tea used in tea and we do not usually drink, called brick tea, with tea-chun, Jiejieshishi, like pieces of brick. Tea, with a sharp object on the chisel under a piece of brick tea in boiling water into a red, goat’s milk into the milk, coffee has become shallow. When can drink according to their own preferences, adding salt or sugar, also can join a Chaomi, this may be a Chaomi millet, Chao Shu directly after eating snacks when can join the tea, a special flavor.There is also a snack on the table, fruit butter called, I estimate that the sheep are Frying, Ting Hong, other dairy products, for I can not meet some of the.

package at this time, some people outside shouting: look out to kill the sheep. We are out of the yurts, outside of a man, like a lamb legs toward heaven and earth in a purpose-built formwork, come up with a knife in the belly of the sheep had struck between, and then only their hands are reaching into, this is a unique Mongolia Grassland The way to kill sheep, known as the Ripper heart out. At the end of the life of the moment, sheep kicked only a few, little voices went so far have not issued, attracted in the same Some people say that no wonder some people describe as gentle as sheep, the sheep was really too soft. In the man’s hand inside her tossing a few sheep, goats quickly fixed, local people say that this is the heart of sheep by cutting the Department of the arteries, which can kill sheep to keep the meat fresh, but some seem to be too Cruel, and local customs that, at this time that the sheep should not be poor, otherwise it will live sheep may not pray. Look at that man stripping efforts in sheep’s clothing, a survey said no,三下五除二, a whole sheep’s clothing will be stripped down, and small blister solution cattle the same period last year, said stripping Mongolian sheep.

out of the yurts, we came to the prairie, the day felt blue, duo Bai Yunfei, low to stand between heaven and earth, near the Qingsha like, tentacle available, like the snow-capped mountains in the distance, far In the sky. It is under the beautiful blue sky and white clouds and the vast grassland, it was said that the mainland will be able to see the prairie grasslands like to see the sea, all would be endless, and have the same heart condition Shen Yi. Due to an abundance of rain this year, coupled with restrictions on Livestock in recent years, no prairie grass once the phenomenon did not happen this year, on grass prairie abundance of sheep manure scene is back.

grassland is a obo, I always thought that was a obo yurts, the only aware that under the original stone of the Lei Cheng Shi Bao. On the vast grassland is vast, so in order to identify the direction of the ancients, in the grasslands from Lei obo, as a beacon in the ocean, there are stone obo of the South Block, with the aim of instruction in the South, such herdsmen come here, they see the obo Stone Block, you can Bianbie a direction. Later obo herdsmen have been gradually as the gods, it is important to the festival have been held. Young men and women in love when they meet in this place is because the grasslands can be no other buildings marked, that in the first Aobaoxianghui is reflected in this scenario. Grassland people on the road often found on stones, came obo, into the top package, which has a number of religious meaning, expressing best wishes and prayers. Therefore, the general history of the buildings in the erosion of becoming the next small, but along with Time obo and the longer the largest circulation.

hello to eat, back to the yurts, a table filled with mutton, lamb chops, sheep Blood Sausage, Rou Chang, Yang Gan, Shouzhua meat, and so on, all the sheep can be part of the Delicacy made, this is the Mongolian people full of the usual sheep of the seats. In order to take care of our guests from Jiangnan, the owner reluctantly made a few vegetables with cool, it’s really in a herdsman’s home is not. One way is called sand dishes onions, green onions might be a kind of thin, and condiments, it is Shannon. Oil is also a pasta noodles, a bit like the Mainland Mian, eat up a good taste. To receive our comrades to open two bottles of white wine, we have to stop at once, just enough to have a bottle. They smiled, drinking here is on me regardless of the bottle. Everyone has a glass before, we used to drink tea in the southern, it’s full of glass, just 22. As usual in the same banquet, we drank frequently, is intended to wish each other, a short while Kung Fu, a glass of wine in a Xiadu. At this point, only the excitement of the yurts. A Mongolian girl in the Mongolian Matou Qin small group of accompaniment, filled with songs, is still in the hands of hada wine, we went to the head of his party before the sound long, long songs, head of the Bowl to take over, a bold drink, on the edge The people immediately and filled glasses, the comrades of this reception tells us that when they can not finish unfinished songs, drinking, but also filled Zai He continued, we watched in laughter at the head of the drink a bowl Wine. Each girl to the King visitors have a bowl of wine in a song, it’s also a warm up high, once again drank frequently, drinking cups, large pieces of meat, as if the ancient pride and enthusiasm. The comrades also received a light voice: Chaomi Shouzhua milk and meat, you eat Enough … …

Hohhot many temples, known as the Mongolian call, which is relatively well-known large-call and Small-call, we went to a small on-call. Small is not Jiao Xiao Zhao Zhao, a Mongolian name, I do not remember, but the amount of licensing temple read Yanshou Temple, the locals are accustomed to the two famous temples known as the size of the call. Mongol belief in the past is more of Lamaism, so I guess should be called small Tibetan Buddhist temple. There are also monuments Hohhot, the most famous is Zhaojun Mu. Wang Zhaojun is the Yuandi Bin Han Fei, as the emperor beauty of the palace 3000, Lin Xing able to get the little emperor, the palace at the time by the Fei Bin artist to paint Mao Yanshou, so that the emperor in the selection of painting, so are bribery Bin Fei Mao Yanshou, and Wang Zhaojun do not want to end, the outcome of the painting to cover up her beautiful. When Hu Hanxie Shanyu to the Handi and the pro-am, decided to put themselves forward Zhaojun, Han Yuan Di at this time only to see a real capacity, it can not help dumping, but has Jinkou open afford to spare no choice but to bear the pain, anger and put to death after Mao Yanshou However, this has led to the integration of the nation’s age-old story, Zhaojun has become the goddess of the Mongolian people’s hearts. Zhaojun Mu today not far from the urban area, a huge mound Yimapingchuan in the land, especially the eye-catching. Grass on the mound luxuriant, visitors can climb stairs. We are on one level and, in the view around the top, one land, the scenery of unlimited, can not help thinking: beauty in this, not to bully Qingzhong. And while you’re pro, I still can think of fame.

“洁白的毡房炊烟升起,我生在牧民的家里,养育我的这片土地,当我的身躯一样爱惜……”腾格尔低沉而悠扬的歌声常常带我走进梦中的草原,远古的塞外,我心中的内蒙,就是那蓝天白云下,牧歌嘹亮中,风吹草低现牛羊的图画。当终于有机会来内蒙时,我满怀热情,渴望感受塞外的激情与欢乐。

边城楼宇临天立

我们此行的第一站是呼和浩特。”呼和浩特”是蒙古语,意为”青色的城”,简称”青城”,因召庙云集,又称”召城”。位于内蒙古自治区中部的土默川,为内蒙古自治区首府,也是全区政治、经济、文化中心,自古为内蒙古草原民族重要聚居地,有蒙古、汉、回、满、鄂伦春、鄂温克等34个民族共居。接待我们的同志开车将我们从机场带到宾馆,沿途道路宽畅整洁,两边绿草如茵,白杨成林,楼宇林立,完全一个现代化的都市,让我不禁感慨:昔日边城千里雪,今朝塞外亦江南。接待的同志笑称,不少外省的客人进入呼市时,大为吃惊,以为这里没有城市,只有草原,上班也得骑马,没想到这里也和内地一样的繁荣现代。

第二天一早我们车行了九十公里,就到了真正的草原——希拉穆仁草原。快到草原时,路边有许多蒙古族青年,穿着鲜艳的蒙古袍,手捧哈达和美酒等在路上。据说这是蒙古的风俗:下马酒。过去没有汽车,客人都是骑马而来,主人迎接时,请客人下马,并以酒表示尊敬。我们逐一下车,蒙族姑娘双手捧着哈达,右手哈达上放着一只银碗,一位蒙族小伙拿着白酒,在客人面前斟满,姑娘放声高唱动听的蒙古歌曲,在歌声中躬身献上美酒,客人端起酒,用食指蘸酒,先洒向天,二洒向地,三洒向自己的额头,喻示着敬天敬地敬祖先,然后一饮而尽。听说不喝就是对主人的不敬,所以我们不敢怠慢,在酒的浓烈中,我们已感受到了蒙族人的热情和豪放,也初步领略了内蒙是歌的海洋、酒的故乡的传说。喝了下马酒,我们上车,继续前行,蒙族青年纷纷上马,奔驰在汽车两边,一路将我们迎入草原,迎进蒙古包。

蒙古包中地毯上放了一张矮桌,牧民们是不用凳子椅子的,我们脱了鞋盘腿坐在地毯上,桌上已放满了奶皮、奶片、奶酪、奶饼、黄油等等各种奶制品,主人给大家斟上奶茶。据介绍,奶茶是蒙族人民重要的饮料,牧民们长期食用羊肉,油脂高,通过喝奶茶可以中和,保证身体的健康。但是内蒙并不产茶叶,所以在古时候,中原和塞外互市贸易中,北方常常用马匹换取中原的茶叶,有时甚至会因为茶而引起战争。不过奶茶所用的茶叶和我们平常饮用的并不一样,叫砖茶,将茶叶椿在一起,结结实实,象块砖头。喝茶的时候,用利器在砖茶上凿下一块,在水中煮沸成红色,冲入牛奶羊奶,便成了浅咖啡色。喝的时候可以根据自己的喜好,加入盐或糖,另外还可以加入一种炒米,这种炒米可能是一种小米,炒熟后可以直接当零食吃,也可以加入奶茶,有一种特别的香味。桌上还有一种点心,叫酥油果,我估计是用羊油炸的,挺香,至于其他的奶制品,对于我就有些不能适应了。

这时包外有人喊:出来看杀羊。我们走出蒙古包,外面一个汉子,把一只绵羊四脚朝天地放在一个特制的铁架上,拿出刀,在羊的腹间开了一刀,然后只手伸了进去,这是蒙古草原独特的杀羊方式,称为开膛掏心。在生命即将结束的一刻,绵羊也只是乱踢了几下,竟然一点声音也没发出,引得同行中有人说,怪不得有人形容温柔的象绵羊一样,原来绵羊真的太温柔。汉子的手在羊腹中折腾了几下,羊很快不动了,当地人说这是把羊心处的动脉弄断了,这种杀羊方法可以保持羊肉的鲜嫩,只是似乎有些太残忍,而当地的风俗是,在这个时候可千万不要说羊可怜,否则这只羊将永世不得超渡。再看那汉子剥羊皮的功夫,也勘称一绝,三下五除二,便将一只整羊皮剥了下来,与疱丁解牛同比,可称蒙汉剥羊。

走出蒙古包,我们来到草原上,天旃蓝,白云飞朵,低低地立于天地之间,近处的有如青纱,触手可得,远处的好似雪山,远在天际。蓝天白云下正是美丽而辽阔的草原,有人说,内地人看到了草原就象草原人看到了大海,同样都是一望无际,同样都令人心况神怡。由于今年雨水比较丰富,加上近年来对牧畜的限制,曾经一度草原无草的现象今年没有发生,草原上草丰羊肥的景象又回来了。

草原上有一座敖包,以前我一直以为敖包是个蒙古包,这次才知道,原来是用石头磊成的石包。草原上是广袤辽阔的,所以古人为了识别方向,便在草原上磊起敖包,如同海洋中的灯塔,敖包的南方有石座,目的是指示南方,这样牧民走到此,只要看到敖包的石座,就可以辩别出方向。后来敖包被牧民渐渐奉为神灵,重要的祭祀活动都在此举行。青年男女恋爱时相约地点也在此,因为草原上没有其他可以标记的建筑物,那首敖包相会所反映的就是这个情景。草原上的人在路上常常捡上几块石头,走到敖包时,扔到包顶,其中多少有着宗教的含义,表达着祝福和祈祷。所以一般的建筑物在历史长河的冲刷下越变越小,而敖包却随着时光的流转越长越大。

招呼吃饭时,回到蒙古包,桌上摆满了羊肉,有羊排、羊血肠、肉肠、羊肝、手抓肉等等,羊身上所有的部分都可以做成美味佳肴,这便是蒙族人平常的全羊席了。为了照顾我们江南来客,主人勉强做了几道凉伴素菜,这在真正的牧民家中是没有的。其中有道菜叫沙葱,可能是葱的一种,细细的,加上作料,很香。还有一道面食是油面,有点象内地的凉面,吃起来口感不错。接待我们的同志要打开两瓶白酒,我们连忙阻止,只需一瓶足已。他们笑笑,这里喝酒是论箱不论瓶的。每个人面前有个酒杯,在江南我们用来喝茶,倒上满满一杯,正好二两。如同平时酒席中一样,大家频频举杯,互致祝意,不一会功夫,一杯酒下肚了。此时,才开始了蒙古包中的热闹。一位蒙族姑娘在蒙族小伙马头琴的伴奏下,歌声洋溢,手中依然是哈达美酒,走到了我们一行的团长面前,琴声悠悠,歌声悠悠,团长接过银碗,豪迈一饮,边上的人却立即又斟满酒杯,接待的同志这才告诉我们,歌声未完时不能喝完,如果喝了,还要继续斟满再喝,大家在笑声中看着团长多喝了一碗酒。姑娘给每个客人都敬了一首歌一碗酒,大家的热情也高涨了起来,再次频频举杯,大杯喝酒,大块吃肉,仿佛远古的豪情。接待的同志也亮起了歌喉:炒米奶茶手抓肉,让你吃个够……

呼市有许多寺庙,蒙古语称之为召,其中比较有名的是大召和小召,我们去了小召。小召其实并不叫小召,有个蒙古语的名字,我没记住,但寺庙牌额上写着延寿寺,当地人习惯于将两座有名的寺庙称为大小召。过去蒙古人是比较信仰喇嘛教的,所以我猜想小召也应该是藏传佛教寺庙。呼市还有一些古迹,最著名的是昭君墓。昭君是汉元帝的嫔妃,由于皇帝后宫佳丽三千,能得皇帝临幸的很少,当时宫中由画师毛延寿为嫔妃作画,让皇帝在画中挑选,因此嫔妃们都贿赂毛延寿,而王昭君不愿为此,结果画中掩盖了她的美丽。而当呼韩邪单于向汉帝和亲时,昭君毅然自荐,汉元帝此时才得见其真容,不禁为之倾倒,可惜金口已开,只好忍痛割爱,事后忿而处死毛延寿,然而这却促成了民族融合的千古佳话,昭君也成了蒙汉人民心中的女神。今天的昭君墓距市区不远,巨大的土冢在一马平川的土地上,格外的显眼。土冢上芳草萋萋,有石阶供游人登顶。我们逐级而上,在顶上远眺四周,江山一派,风光无限,不由思量:佳人曾在此,青冢不为欺。千载和亲后,功名犹可思。

http://www.robroad.com/data/tour/index.php/sheep-mongolian-mongolia-tea/

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